Revisiting the Hatfields and McCoys

My short term, obsession issues…

As my wife will tell everyone, I have a tendency to sometimes get obsessed on some seemingly random topic. If that occurs, I then tend to read up all the details that I have on hand. Next, if available, I watch any movie or video that can be found on my smart TV. If my interest is still holding, the ultimate last step is the site visit. Yep, go on a blog mission to see if any history is still left of my current, short term, obsession. Recently, this cycle happened in regards to the Hatfield-McCoy feud. We all know the basics. But, after I read up on the details, I wanted to see what was left to experience. I wanted see the land, the mountains, the cemeteries, the memorials, and the museums. Basically, I was interested in revisiting the Hatfields and the McCoys to see what’s left of the feud.

Heads of the Snakes

Let’s begin revisiting the Hatfields and McCoys by introducing the head of the clans. Obviously, that would be Randolph McCoy and William Anderson Hatfield (a.k.a. Devil Anse). They were both civil war veterans from the Confederate side. Furthermore, Randolph and clan were middle class farmers located in eastern Kentucky, just west of the Tug River. Devil Anse and clan were more successful loggers located in western West Virginia, just east of the Tug River. The closest thing to a real city near the feud area is Pikeville, Kentucky.

The wooden carving is Randolph McCoy at the actual site of his homestead. This memorial site is located in the back yard of one of the local mountain residents. Trespassing in these parts can make the road trip life threatening. But, this resident seemed to welcome visitors and even offered some parking, as well as a donation jar. The next picture is a mannequin of Devil Anse at the Big Sandy Heritage Museum in Pikeville, KY. The Big Sandy Hertiage Museum is the largest single collection of H-M artifacts and pictures.

So, who started it?

The clan hatred began in the Civil War, but really got stoked up by the “Hog Trial” in 1878. Randolph McCoy accused a Hatfield of stealing one of his hogs. It went to trial. McCoy lost the trial. However, the main witness that supported the Hatfields in the trial was soon killed by 2 McCoys. The McCoys shooters were officially acquitted on grounds of self defense. But, the dye was cast and the violence was underway.

Things just got worse from there…

In 1880, the love them and leave them Hillbilly Romeo, Johnse Hatfield, had a fling with Roseanna McCoy. Roseanna got knocked up, then dumped, then kicked out of both homesteads. Her dad, Randolph, proclaimed that she was no longer a “real McCoy.” Anyway, Roseanna moved in with her aunt in Pikeville. The baby died as an infant, and Roseanna passed away soon thereafter.

Then in 1882, three McCoy brothers got into a fight with Ellison Hatfield (Devil Anse’s brother). Well, sh&t happens and one of the brothers critically shoots Ellison. Devil Anse manages to capture the 3 McCoy brothers and holds them at the Hatfield homestead. Devil Anse was waiting to see if his Ellison died of his wounds before deciding the fate of the McCoys. You guessed it…Ellison died. Devil Anse and clan took the 3 brothers to the Kentucky bank of the Tug River, tied them to paw paw trees, and shot them over 50 times.

The Tug River is the unofficial dividing line between Hatfield and McCoy territory, as well as the actual Kentucky-West Virginia border. Although the picture shows a sycamore tree, the signs says the paw paw trees used to be here..way back when.

Fast Forward to the End

After the executions, the respective state governments started to get more involved. Kentucky appointed special deputy, Frank Phillips, to pursue warrants against the Hatfields. Frank Phillips was better at taking out the Hatfields than the McCoys ever were. The tide of battle really started turning against the Hatfields. In an attempt to regain the edge in the feud, the Hatfields directly attacked the home of Randolph McCoy on New Years Eve in 1888. Randolph McCoy got away. But, the Hatfields burned down his house, killed 2 McCoy children, and severely beat Randolph’s wife.

Soon thereafter, there was an all out shootout at Grapevine Creek. Eventually, the special deputies and McCoys killed 2 Hatfields and captured 9 others. Eventually, following a US Supreme Court ruling, Kentucky officials were able to convict the 9 Hatfields at the Pikeville courthouse. Pikeville officials hung one Hatfield and imprisoned the remaining defendants for a long time. Following the convictions of many of the Hatfields, the feud pretty much wrapped up.

Ultimately, it always ends here

Ironically, neither Randolph McCoy or Devil Anse Hatfield were imprisoned or injured in the feud. Apparently, both of them had good feud delegation skills. Randolph moved further west into Pikeville to distance himself and his wife from the Hatfields. Devil Anse moved a bit east as well to defuse hostility, as well as avoid arrest. Both patriarchs lived another 25-30 years in relative peace after the Pikeville trials. Ultimately, old age finally claimed both feud leaders. On the bright side, the cemeteries for both of them were the best part of this road trip.

Relatively speaking, Randolph McCoys’ gravesite is easy to get to. It’s in Dils Cemetery that is on a hill at the outskirts of Pikeville. There are wooden stairs that help you get to the top. These back country cemeteries always seem to be on major hillsides. Randolph’s family enclosure also includes his wife Sarah, and disgraced daughter, Roseanna. In stark contrast, there is the cemetery of Devil Anse Hatfield…

The Hatfield cemetery is not nearly as convenient or accessible. There is more ATV traffic than automobile in this region. When you arrive at the cemetery gates, you park along the road as best you can. It’s then a bit of a hike straight up the hill. There are no helpful stairs, just dirt and/or mud to the top.

Wrap it up

To be honest, this road trip works a lot better if you have a preexisting interest in the McCoy-Hatfield feud. Other than the cemeteries, the actual sites and markers are not all that breathtaking to non Hatfield-McCoy enthusiasts. But, the drive through all the mountain hollows (a.k.a. “hollers”) is quite interesting. It’s a mountainous and very rural back country. Do not count on any cell service or GPS navigation. You also get a sad feel for the struggling coal miner population as you pass through the various unincorporated villages. I also wanted to thank Goosebuster for accompanying me on this trip. He served as my crack navigator, my eastern Kentucky translator, and my heat packing, body guard for this isolated bit of Americana. So, that’s it. That is my day of revisiting the Hatfields and McCoys. PT

I hope you have enjoyed reading “Finding the Hatfields and the McCoys” on Traveling with PugsleyTonks.

Speaking of very rural Kentucky, here’s another post https://travelingwithpt.com/return-to-rabbit-hash/

If you have any interest in your own Hatfield-McCoy road trip, https://tourpikecounty.com/things-to-see-do/history_culture/hatfields_and_mccoys/

p.s. Here are just 2 more photos that I liked, but could not fit in the context of the post. The first photo is my favorite Hatfield-McCoy memorial. The winding wall represents the Tug River. It’s actually a timeline of major feud events. On one side of the wall, there is a description of the event from the Hatfield perspective. On the other side of the wall, there is the same event as explained by a McCoy. It’s good stuff. Finally, the last picture gives us true closure. It is the certificate of “Everlasting Friendship” (i.e. peace treaty) signed by the Hatfields and McCoys in 1924.