Traveling with PugsleyTonks

What is Traveling with PugsleyTonks all about?? My goal is the pursuit of that little slice of Americana. It's not big name or high-cost tourism. PugsleyTonks likes to find that diamond in the rough or go to the out of the way small town. I want to visit the oldest bar in every state with hopes that they serve some PBR on tap. Find that unique "ma-pa" restaurant with an interesting blue collar atmosphere and large portions to match. Or, perhaps its as simple as a little walkabout in the city to discover that strange little statue or other oddities. So, please come and join me in my search for Americana. Discover some obscure attraction or learn some useless information. All are welcome and its really just good, clean travel fun. PT

HIDDEN GEMS

Germans and their Beer!

I do not know how to do this post without providing some history and education. So, I apologize in advance if this post is too educational. Please bear with it. In the end, its really just about Germans and their beer!

In the 1840s and 50s, lots of Germans immigrated to the USA. While German immigrants ended up all over, Cincinnati was one of the largest US populations. Consequently, this sudden influx created the tale of two cities within Cincinnati. Just north of the Ohio river was the “American” side of Cincinnati. Then, as you progressed further north, you came to the Miami-Erie canal (now Central Parkway). When you crossed the canal, you entered into the northern portion of the city. And, this portion is where most German immigrants settled. The “Americans” said that crossing the canal was just like going over the Rhine river into Germany. Therefore, this neighborhood was called Over the Rhine (OTR). Although most of the Germans have departed OTR, many aspects of their history remain.

Not surprisingly, the aspect of history that I will focus upon is BEER. The Germans in OTR drank staggering amounts of beer. Generally speaking, the water was disgusting and dangerous. If you wanted to live long, you drank beer instead. Or, more specifically, you drank ale or lager. Ale was more common. Ales are usually the heavy and bigger tastes (e.g. stouts, IPA). Traditionally, ales have higher alcohol content. Lagers are the lighter, easier to drink and refreshing beers that dominate our current domestic market (e.g. PBR, Bud Lite).

Beyond the taste, the other important distinction was the production process. In 1850, ales were easier to make. Fermentation for ales occurs at room temperature. Fermentation for lagers occurs between 45-55 degrees F. So, with limited refrigeration, the Germans could only drank lager in the winter. And, ale was the drink of “no choice” for the remaining 9 months of the year. But, the Germans wanted more lager. Many people drank beer for most of the day. Drinking light, low alcohol beer is advantageous. So, showing true Germain ingenuity and efficiency, my German ancestors found a way…

The Germans dug out the lager tunnels. The lager tunnels are about 40 feet below street level in much of Over the Rhine. Therefore, the much cooler temperatures below ground allowed for lager production year round. However, following Prohibition, the refrigeration technology made these tunnels obsolete. Consequently, these tunnels were filled in, concreted over, and generally forgotten in city history. Recently, in the 1990s, some local business owner rediscovered these tunnels under his building. Since then, various groups have been excavating the tunnels in an attempt to resurrect history, and more importantly, capture tourism dollars. I give you the lager tunnels of Over the Rhine…

I can not emphasize how vast these tunnels are. This is not one tunnel, under one old tavern. Rather, this is many tunnels for several city blocks, going under streets and buildings alike. There was plenty of room to make lots of lager. Little by little, they keep excavating more and more tunnels. And, you really can not get any equipment into the tunnels to help with excavation. The tunnels are mostly cleared out by hand, shovel by shovel, and bucket by bucket.

Naturally, some entrepreneur created a tour business so that you can experience the tunnels. These underground Cincinnati tours have become very popular. Typically, the tours end up in one of the local breweries for an ale or lager of your own. Leave some time to experience the Over the Rhine neighborhood while you are here as well. OTR was a pretty rough neighborhood in the 1990s and before. But, in the last 20 years, there has been some major focus and money sunk into the neighborhood. OTR is now a great place for eating and brewery hopping. So, if you enjoyed this OTR introduction, I recommend a half day to take the tour and spend some time learning about the Germans and their beer. Have a nice day. PT

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