Traveling with PugsleyTonks

What is Traveling with PugsleyTonks all about?? My goal is the pursuit of that little slice of Americana. It's not big name or high-cost tourism. PugsleyTonks likes to find that diamond in the rough or go to the out of the way small town. I want to visit the oldest bar in every state with hopes that they serve some PBR on tap. Find that unique "ma-pa" restaurant with an interesting blue collar atmosphere and large portions to match. Or, perhaps its as simple as a little walkabout in the city to discover that strange little statue or other oddities. So, please come and join me in my search for Americana. Discover some obscure attraction or learn some useless information. All are welcome and its really just good, clean travel fun. PT

"FINE" DININGHIDDEN GEMS

Most exclusive restaurant in USA?….PHANTOM RANCH, of course

First, lets review my claim of what makes a restaurant “most exclusive.” In this case, I am talking about how tough is it to get a seat in the dining room. On this basis, I offer up the PHANTOM RANCH. At the time of my visit, the Phantom Ranch took reservations 13 months ahead of time. You had to commit to the day you wanted to visit. Then, you must figure out the time that they start taking calls. And then, you repeatedly call until you get through to book your accommodations and dinner at the Phantom Ranch. The Phantom Ranch just happens to be at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. There is no way PugsleyTonks would ever go through this for a reservation…thankfully, my OCD/AR good friend took care of all this and invited me along.

To understand how great the Phantom Ranch experience is…you have to put everything in context. First, understand that your day started well before dawn. You are at the top of the Grand Canyon which is at elevation so the morning is cold. Then, you start hiking down the canyon. The hike is 8-10 miles depending on your path. There is NO level ground…with each step you are going down. As you go lower in elevation and the sun rises in the sky…it gets hot…real hot. After about 7-8 hours on the trail down, my mind was completely focused on 2 things…one, how good its going feel to take off my boots and put my feet in a canyon stream…and two, there is BEER at the bottom. With those two thoughts driving driving me on…it can not be overemphasized enough just how glorious it was to see the sign below…and know that my hike was over…Let the partying commence!

You may not believe this, but I actually did not grab a beer in my first minute of arrival. My wife and I actually located the cold canyon stream, took off our boots, and submerged our feet in pure pleasure. It was everything that we thought it would be. It does not last as long as you would think because the water is cold. But that’s OK, because it was time to move on to the dining hall for some beer. As if things were not urgent enough, its not a leisurely beer at the dining hall. You only get to drink until about 4pm. Then, they kick you out so they can reset the dining hall for dinner service. So realistically, I probably only had an hour of power drinking. For the record, there was no PBR. The one hour limit was probably a good thing since you have to get up at before dawn again the next day and walk UP the canyon for 10 miles.

After the dinner reset is complete, they let you into the dining hall for the best steak that I have ever had. Again, its all about context…that steak could have been rancid horse meat. But, hike all day in the heat, eating only backpack rations for the day…and miraculously, the steak becomes the most wonderful food that I had ever eaten.

The dinner is over early. You spend the rest of the evening relaxing on the floor of the canyon and enjoying the company of friends. I think that was my best view ever of the Milky Way galaxy. The cabins are simple and the shower is in a shower house, but there was a bed and it was good. Then it was early to bed and early to rise. Before sun up the next day, we began our march back to the rim of the canyon. The 13 month advance reservation and 10 mile forced march was well worth it to eat at the most exclusive restaurant in the USA…the Phantom Ranch. PT

p.s. I want to dedicate this post to my OCD/AR friend who set this all up and made the trip happen. Thank you my friend